Hand on heart: have you heard of São Tomé and Príncipe before? The name may ring a bell, but finding this second smallest African island state on a map is not so easy – and as a travel destination it’s probably not even on your radar. And yet this tropical archipelago in the Gulf of Guinea, including the eponymous main islands, located around 200 kilometres off the West African coast on the equator, has much to offer. The history of the country dates back to 1470, when Portuguese sailors discovered and conquered the islands. Sugar production was the main industry during colonial times followed later by crops such as coffee, vanilla and cocoa, which still accounts for 15,000 tonnes of annual exports today. After decades of resistance against the colonial regime, the Declaration of Independence was finally signed in 1975, paving the way for a democratic republic. Of the country’s roughly 210,000 residents, around 95% live on São Tomé, primarily in the capital, which is where you’ll find the international airport. The larger island’s most striking landmark is Pico Cão Grande, a 663-metre-high rock which rises up from the jungle of the Obô Natural Park – albeit with its peak often cocooned in the clouds. Traces of colonial past can be found everywhere: in old plantations, in the magnificent roças – historic residential buildings – or even in lost places with ruins that are being reclaimed by nature, piece by piece.
It’s actually quite surprising that the picturesque islands of São Tomé and Príncipe are still regarded as a true insiders destination and have not succumbed to the lure of mass tourism. The reasons for this lie in the vast expanses of tropical rainforest, large parts of which have been declared a nature reserve by the country’s government – and on Príncipe, even a UNESCO biosphere reserve. One person who recognised the uniqueness of this idyllic island state immediately is Mark Shuttleworth. This tech entrepreneur from South Africa had already made a name for himself in the 1990s through his work developing digital SSL security certificates – and made a fortune with the sale of his company. Today he is the founder and CEO behind the software companies Canonical and Ubuntu. He was also the first African space tourist to travel in a Russian Soyuz rocket on its way to the International Space Station (ISS) – an experience which gave him a new outlook on life in the truest sense of the word. A charismatic visionary, he is now putting his values into practice with ‘HBD Príncipe’, an initiative which aims to achieve economically and socially sustainable ecotourism development on the island of Príncipe. His purely self-financed investment in the three-digit million range focuses on tourism, agriculture, nature conservation, emphasising mindful local development on Príncipe for the benefit of the local population in particular. The initiative has established agroforestry projects to promote local products; it supports educational and social programmes as well as undertaking measures to improve the transport infrastructure. Several boutique hotels and resorts are operated under the ‘Príncipe Collection’ umbrella, which has ensured a gentle and innovative approach to tourism: each hotel demonstrates in its own way how high standards of comfort can be combined with economic, ecological and social responsibility.
Príncipe benefits from a breathtaking natural spectacle: when the spray of the waves crashes onto the rugged volcanic rocks, when the isolated calls of rare wild birds mingle with the soft whispering of the imposing palm, tamarind and kapok trees or when you walk along hidden jungle paths over branching roots, accompanied by tropical humidity and all imaginable shades of green: then this is pure nature. When tiny sea turtles make their way into the turquoise water on the deserted, golden beaches or humpback whales pass by just a few metres away, then you know you have arrived in real paradise. A paradise whose beauty is worth sharing, but also needs to be protected. This is why it sometimes takes time for HBD Príncipe’s visionary projects of the future to be understood in their pioneering sustainability and implemented with the consent and cooperation of the local islanders.
The yellow-skinned fruits are picked from the trees by hand and carefully broken open to reveal their precious interior: the white-coated cocoa beans of the traditional Forastera variety. They are stored together with the fruit pulp in boxes for up to 16 days, causing the fermentation process to take place; this reduces bitterness and allows the typical cocoa flavour to mature. Sun-dried in order to preserve them, the beans are then cleaned, roasted and shelled. The result is pure magic: handcrafted organic chocolate that is renowned throughout the world for its superb quality. Each piece melts on your tongue, unfolding its 75, 80 or 100 per cent cocoa in a uniquely aromatic, intense freshness – completely without added sugar or spices. There are few places where you can discover the islands’ cocoa heritage as authentically as in Roça Sundy. The Eclipse House of this boutique hotel used to be the plantation owner’s residence; the Cacao House was the employees’ factory building. Cocoa and chocolate prominently feature in the cuisine here: sometimes in flavoursome desserts or in the delicate details of individual courses of the menus, which are overwhelmingly crafted with local ingredients – freshly caught fish and seafood, poultry, vegetables from the garden and tropical fruits. As well as international cuisine, guests can savour colourful Creole specialities, naturally always guided by the mindful, sustainable philosophy that prioritises organic quality and freshness. The Omali Lodge on São Tomé is considered one of the best dining addresses on the islands: it serves typical local dishes and, depending on the season, also international creations. It’s worth making the trip for the sumptuous chocolate mousse alone! Despite all the understated authenticity, guests enjoy pure eco-luxury in the hotels of the Príncipe Collection – with immensely pleasurable travel experiences.
‘Leve, leve’ – take it easy – it’s what they say on the islands, referring to the sense of slowing down that happens when you spend time in tropical nature. From the moment you arrive, you feel the pleasantly warm climate – temperatures remain constant all year, thanks to being close to the equator. If you visit between June and September, you won’t have to worry much about rain because this is the dry season – perfect for relaxing days on the beach or going on excursions and hikes without your rain jacket. During the rainy season from October to May you can expect occasional short tropical showers which inspire the vegetation to reveal its full splendour – blossoming orchids, giant begonias and thunbergias. And it’s during these months that the turtles migrate onto the beaches to nest. If you want to see whales and dolphins, the chances are highest in August and October. So, are you ready for take-off? TAP Portugal flies three times a week from Lisbon to Sao Tomé and from there it’s just a 30-minute flight to Príncipe.
Príncipe Collection
Five hotels united by a single vision: the Sundy Praia Retreat with its distinctive tented villas situated right on the beach; the bungalow resort Bom Bom, which promises a relaxed tropical ambience between two golden beaches; the boutique hotel Roça Sundy, featuring authentically restored buildings of a former chocolate factory; the new resort Belo Monte, located above the iconic Banana Beach and offering magnificent views and the Omali Lodge, a beach hotel on São Tomé which rounds off the collection to perfection. All are a melange of exclusivity, heritage and nature and are waiting to give you a warm welcome and unforgettable experiences.
Let's go Tours – travel specialists for São Tomé & Príncipe
If we’ve sparked your curiosity for the two islands and inspired you to visit this hidden paradise, we recommend that you talk to some real experts: the experienced team at Let’s go Tours in Schaffhausen, Switzerland, will be happy to tell you everything you need to know about the country, its people, flora & fauna and climate, the best time to travel, how to get there, where to stay, highlights and round trips. These travel professionals are specialists for Africa and would be delighted to fulfil individual requests for tailor-made experiences – hiking, climbing, snorkelling, diving; a spot of whale watching or turtle observing; perhaps a boat trip or a romantic dinner. The sky’s the limit
Let's go Tours AG, letsgo.ch
