A glass pedestal; with white spirals meandering up towards the sky. Tower 140 West in Frankfurt’s fashionable Westend-Süd district makes a statement through its architecture alone. This 145-metre skyscraper houses the Meliá Frankfurt City up to the 23rd floor, with only private residences above. In the immediate vicinity: the business and financial district and the Frankfurt Trade Fair; the Alte Oper concert hall, the Zeil shopping street and the famous Palmengarten are also nearby. Arrive with a ‘lightness of being’, perhaps a little closer to heaven: on the 15th floor, ‘The Level’ welcomes you with its own reception and elegant lounge, reserved exclusively for the guests of this exclusive concept within the hotel. Filled with a sense of boundless freedom, you appear to be surrounded by the glow of the sky itself which, separated only by towering panes of glass, reveals a panorama in which the city below appears like a miniature toy landscape, framed on the horizon by the green expanse of the Taunus Mountains. The rooms and suites of ‘The Level’ are tucked away in the upper floors, offering generous, modern design and private balconies, hidden from view and suspended above the metropolis on the River Main. With a drink in your hand and the famous skyline unfolding before you: moments like these leave truly unforgettable memories. Perhaps we should go for a workout in the hotel gym before dinner at the Oben Restaurant; or relax in the sauna? Or simply pause space and time for a brief moment and stay where we are? These thoughts explain how the hotel becomes much more than an ideal starting point for this short trip. It becomes the centrepiece around which you can develop unique experiences; a safe haven offering calm at lofty heights and a rich variety of possibilities.
Next morning. The outlines of the city soften; geometric buildings give way to a softer organic landscape. The Rhine flows steadily, unhurried and powerful. The hills of the Rheingau open up in front of us: bright, lush green, with endless slopes of vineyards. This is where the Riesling and Pinot Noir grapes are grown, wines for which the region is world-renowned. Then Kloster Eberbach appears: an imposing monument nestled into the wooded slopes of the Taunus. It bears witness to its origins as a medieval monastery with its massive walls, Romanesque arches and winding cloisters. The hushed, austere stillness of its rooms feels familiar: scenes from the film classic ‘The Name of the Rose’, starring Sean Connery, were filmed here. We move from the past into the present day: the art of winemaking has been a core monastic craft here since the 13th century; a deeply rooted expertise and the passionate heritage takes top priority. Here, wine is not a trend, but a quiet, unforced tradition. It is not a performance but a continuing tradition. This philosophy creates the highest quality that needs no explanation. Wordlessly, it wins you over.
Another location, another story. Wine, once traded between a noble family and the St. Viktorstift in Mainz, was formally ratified on 18 November 1211. Schloss Vollrads is one of the oldest vineyards in Germany, but it is utterly unpretentious: no loud presence, no big performance. Instead, its ancient heritage is carried forward naturally, with continuity, vast knowledge and conviction. One of the reasons why it is so well worth seeing and experiencing: its vineyards produce Riesling exclusively. These wines reflect their sunny origin, their careful sustainable cultivation and a deep respect for the craft of winemaking, presenting themselves with calm clarity and a wonderfully pure elegance. A wine that does not push itself to the front, but wins you over through its expression: strong, reliable, familiar. And yet its origin would justify any boasting: the historic estate is truly magnificent with its medieval tower; the elegant 17th century manor and the old coach house, which houses the vinothek today. We continue our journey and arrive at Schloss Johannisberg, a landmark of European wine culture. The world’s first documented wine-growing estate, proudly seated on a hill surrounded by gently falling vineyards. Riesling was not only shaped here, it was born here and refined over centuries into its present form: precise, harmonious, with balanced minerality and an unmistakable character. The style of Spätlese (late harvest wine) also originated here, born of serendipity, patience and boldness: when in 1775 the official permission to begin the wine harvest was delayed, the grapes were left to over-ripen on the vines. The plucky cellar master harvested and pressed them anyway: Spätlese was born, becoming another flagship for Schloss Johannisberg. Three wine-growing estates, three expressions of the same culture, crafted with passion and skill, patience and effort. And yet, each speaks its own different language; each has developed a unique style.
Back to the city. Back to the Meliá Frankfurt City Hotel, where our suite in ‘The Level’ is waiting for us. We glance around and take stock: the skyline with its soaring glass towers; the humming streets and squares; the constant buzz of the city – everything is unchanged, yet our perspective has shifted. We realise: being near to heaven is not a place. It is a state that hovers between height and depth; between city and nature; stone and countryside. And sometimes, a short journey is all you need to touch it.
Oben Restaurant, Meliá Frankfurt City
Perhaps it is the ambience that exudes when you first enter Oben; located 85 metres above the city, it creates a sense of elevation and exhilaration. Perhaps it is the cuisine and its varied Spanish-inspired creations designed by chef de cuisine Carsten Härtel, with inspiration from star chef Iñigo Urrechu. In any case, you are in heavenly hands here, pampered with refined delicacies that focus on the essentials: freshness, quality, authenticity. The menu list offers carefully selected seasonal specialities of fish and meat as well as sophisticated vegetarian dishes. Before sitting down for your multi-course dinner with its accompanying wine selection – sourced from the region or from Spain – you might like to sip an aperitif or a signature cocktail at the Skybar, and savour a selection of tapas as an appetiser, all while enjoying the fabulous view.
Kloster Eberbach – 2023 GOLDENER BECHER, Steinberg Riesling GG
The wine collection of Kloster Eberbach in Eltville includes Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, grown on outstanding terroirs from the Rheingau to the Hessische Bergstrasse. Sustainable cultivation, meticulous hand harvesting and gentle vinification produce top-tier wines including this excellent Riesling: intense aromas of yellow apricot with notes of lemon balm and calendula; a fine minerality which gives the perfect balance. A wine of complexity, depth and outstanding structure.
Schloss Vollrads – 2021 GREIFFENBERG GG Riesling
This dry Riesling from the monopole site (single vineyard) Greiffenberg is matured for 18 months in traditional Rheingau oak barrels. Its bouquet captivates you with finely spiced, fruity nuances, unfolding into a rich, slightly creamy finish. A sophisticated top-quality wine from this vineyard in Oestrich-Winkel, where 70 hectares are cultivated under strict organic principles. The finest vintages and limited-edition rarities age in the historic vaulted cabinet cellar.
2022 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Goldlack Trocken
The Schloss Johannisberg wine collection ranges from dry and off-dry Rieslings to sweet Spätlesen, Beerenaus–lesen (late harvest dessert wines) and refined Cuvées (grape variety blends) as limited specialities. The stylish bottle collars – metal and colour-coded – classify style and quality. Among the dry Riesling wines, Goldlack is the masterpiece of the renowned Geisenheimer vineyard: eclectic and concentrated, it captures both the mineral quartzite soil and the sunlit freshness of fruit. A subtle hint of wood emerges, thanks to it being aged in large oak casks stored in the legendary ‘Bibliotheca subterranea’ – an underground treasure chamber at the vineyard holding 25,000 precious wines, the oldest dating from 1748. A place where past, present and future merge. And as the warm afternoon sun lingers over the vines, we savour once more the aromas, the atmosphere of the vineyard and the view across the Rhine before saying farewell.
